However, it is considerably more challenging than Route 1. This could be seen as Whitecap’s standard route, insofar as other parties have reported climbing it in the modern era. The face is so broken that any further description is futile: simply find a suitable gully and climb it through the lower cliff bands, then finish by ascending the open face above, which will likely involve some combination of scree, snow, and small rock ribs. Later in the season, much of the snow melts, and a talus-only route may be possible. Many routes are possible the author climbed a nearly continuous snow route, beginning with a narrow couloir which dog-legged to the right and moving climber’s right onto open slopes near the top.

Route 1: South Couloirs, Class 3, Moderate Snowįrom the northern bench above the upper Peak Lake valley, the southeast face of Whitecap is a broken mess of towers, gullies, and ridges. Those on longer itineraries have also climbed Whitecap enroute to Scott Lake via Stone Pillar Pass. Probably the most practical strategy would be to camp near Peak Lake and climb Whitecap, Split, and possibly other peaks from there. Mount Whitecap is separated from most other 13ers by deep valleys, and it is difficult to combine Whitecap into an extended traverse. Whitecap is perhaps one of the most average Wyoming 13ers: not particularly hard, not particularly easy, good views, a mix of snow and rock options, a popular backpacking trail on one side, and a remote alpine cirque on the other side. The snow cap on Mount Whitecap has melted completely by late summer in recent years, but earlier in the season, the distinctive white bonnet is visible from all around the region even though Whitecap is rather lower than its neighbors.

Whitecap mt